1995 Vintage Report
Overview
1995 is yet another very fine vintage, the eighth in a row from Germany. Nature is doing everything in its power to make sure people take notice of great German Riesling. It is again a vintage with very good ripeness marked by great acid structure. What is missing in some situations are the huge dessert wines. Overall 95 has many similarities to the great 1994 vintage.
The Middle Mosel in 95 is exceptional. On the Saar and Ruwer 95 is very similar to the 93 and 94 vintages. Top performers in other regions were Robert Weil in the Rheingau, Gunderloch in Rheinhessen and Pfeffingen in the Pfalz. In Franconia and Württemberg it was an average vintage with slightly better results in Baden.
Another highlight of the 1995 vintage is the selection of Dr. Manfred Prüm (Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm) as the Gault Millau winemaker of the year. In the United States Joh. Jos. Prüm is perhaps the most recognized name in fine German wine. We are indeed privileged to represent such a landmark German estate. His filigreed Riesling wines are often difficult to understand in their youth but with some bottle age they achieve unsurpassed finesse and elegance. According to Dr. Prüm, Cellars International's sales represent approximately 90% of the Joh. Jos. Prüm wine sold in the U.S.. We congratulate Dr. Prüm and wish him many years of continued success.
Table 1: Middle Mosel weather data for the months April to October.
|
Month |
1995 / 1994 |
Long Term Average |
||||
|
|
Temp in °C |
Hours of Sunshine |
Rain in Millimeters |
Temp in °C |
Hours of Sunshine |
Rain in Millimeters |
|
April |
10.5 / 9.6 |
128 / 141 |
65 / 43 |
9.3 |
149 |
51 |
|
May |
14.6 / 14.1 |
212 / 162 |
42 / 66 |
13.8 |
199 |
61 |
|
June |
16.4 / 18.6 |
164 / 253 |
22 / 42 |
16.8 |
202 |
68 |
|
July |
22.4 / 23.4 |
254 / 268 |
63 / 45 |
18.5 |
211 |
72 |
|
August |
19.9 / 19.1 |
226 / 184 |
72 / 85 |
17.7 |
183 |
76 |
|
September |
12.5 / 14.6 |
84 / 95 |
74 / 62 |
14.7 |
135 |
55 |
|
October |
13.8 / 10.0 |
94 / 127 |
23 / 49 |
10.0 |
87 |
57 |
|
Average |
15.7 / 15.6 |
167 / 176 |
52 / 56 |
14.4 |
167 |
63 |
1995 was again a year of extreme climatic conditions. Compared to recent vintages the vines were often two weeks in arrears. The "golden" October weather brought a very positive conclusion to the vintage especially for the late ripening Riesling.
The winter was mild and wet with very little snow. Spring was rainy and the lack of sunshine hours in April resulted in a late bud break. A very sunny, mild May allowed the vine to catch up but it suffered a set back due to the poor June weather delaying flowering until June 27 which is even later than the long term average. Coulure, especially in the better sites pointed early to a small harvest which was worsened by the almost uninterrupted September rains. The very hot July / August weather (28% over the long-term average) allowed the grape development to surge and the start of ripening was only a week behind 1990 but way ahead of the long-term average.
Table 2 : Phenological data for Riesling on the Middle Mosel
|
Vintage (Riesling) |
1975 |
1990 |
1994 |
1995 |
Long Term Average |
|
Bud Break |
5/2 |
4/24 |
4/27 |
5/1 |
5/2 |
|
Flowering |
6/26 |
6/15 |
6/21 |
6/27 |
6/25 |
|
Start of Ripening |
8/29 |
8/20 |
8/22 |
8/27 |
9/7 |
|
Start of Harvest |
10/15 |
10/15 |
10/10 |
10/16 |
10/21 |
Harvest began on October 16th (a day after the 1990 harvest) almost a week ahead of the long term average. The late summer days in September, much like in 1994, showed a sunshine deficit of 38%, and excess rain of 34%. October had very little rain (60% below the long-term average), and higher than average temperatures. This allowed the late ripening Riesling grapes to benefit from these ideal harvest conditions.
On the Mosel virtually no grapes were harvested at QbA level. Many Ausleses will be declassified to Kabinett and Spätlese. At Zilliken, for example, we tasted amongst the finest Kabinett and Spätlese ever. Late formation of botrytis on the Mosel also allowed the production of BA and TBA.
In the Rheingau Robert Weil produce more wine at the BA level than ever before, but the TBA harvest was extremely difficult and selective. Similar conditions at Gunderloch where very hard selection brought another TBA, but no BA or Auslese ***. At Pfeffingen the Scheurebe TBA is to die for. On November 5 and 6 a significant amount of Eiswein was produced especially on the Saar and Ruwer. Late December a small quantity of higher quality Eiswein was picked.
Our barrel tastings in January promise wines that are quite similar in character to the 94s. The 95s show very ripe, bright fruit. Plus the wines are balanced by lots of ripe acids.
Estates by Region
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Schloss Lieser
Another superb vintage with barely 30 hl/ha harvested. Must weights range from 72 to 160 Öchsle. Very concentrated wines with lots of botrytis in all the Ausleses upward. Acid structure is similar to the 94 vintage. Sugarfree extracts are very high with over 30gm/l in the Spätleses. Pear and red berry fruit in the Ausleses, moving to tropical fruit in the Auslese ** and Auslese ***.
Mönchhof
Another very good vintage (about 60 hl/ha) with must weights from 75 to 135 Öchsle. For the first time we will be offering a Mönchhof Estate Riesling. In the wine, acids range from 9.5 to 11 gm/l, again very high and quite similar to 94. Extracts are high. The wines show a bright, tropical fruit character. The highest must weight was in the Erdener Treppchen, and although it should be offered as a BA, it will most likely come to market as a GKA.
J.J. Prüm
Dr. Manfred Prüm is very high on the 95 vintage. He feels that the wines will be the equal to both the 90 and 94 vintages (maybe even better). Less than 50hl/ha harvest with must weights to TBA level. In Wehlen only Ausleses were harvested. Many will be declassified to Spätlese. There will be no Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, only an Estate Kabinett and Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett. Tasted from barrel up to the GKA level. Even the "normal" Ausleses from Graach and Wehlen are loaded with botrytis.
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm
Very good to outstanding vintage. Must weights
from 75 to 134 Öchsle. Both acids and sugarfree extracts are
very high. Very similar to the 94 vintage. The Spätlese are
loaded with tropical fruit and hints of cassis. Several GKAs are
packed with botrytis which reminds one of honey, apricots,
butterscotch and passion fruit.
Dr. Loosen
Very good vintage. Erni feels the quality is
better than in 94. Must weights range from 70 to 178 Öchsle.
Highest must weight came in the Ürziger Würzgarten. There will
also be a Dr. Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Erdener Treppchen
BA. The Erdener Prälat LGKA is of very high BA quality. Yield
was 55 hl/ha. Acid levels and sugarfree extracts are very high.
Did not taste any 95s.
Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch
Very good vintage with must weights ranging from 80 to 150 Öchsle. Must weights were slightly higher than in 94 with acid levels somewhat lower. Harvest yielded 58 hl/ha. Did not taste any 95s.
Fritz Haag
Outstanding vintage with average yield of 60
hl/ha. Must weights to TBA level with very high acids and
extracts. Tasted from Estate Riesling to GKA. The wines exhibit
very bright flavors, apples, pears, and in the highend wines
tropical fruit with cassis. Acidity in the GKA is 12 gm/l. There
is also a super Kabinett from the Juffer vineyard.
Reinhold Haart
Superb vintage with a yield of only 40 hl/ha.
Must weights ranged from 80 to 150 Öchsle. As most other sites
on the Middle Mosel, extracts and acids are very high. Theo feels
the vintage is much like 90. Tasted from Estate Riesling all the
way up to a Goldtröpfchen BA (153 Öchsle). The lower quality
exhibits classic peaches fruit and the top wines show a very fine
botrytis, honeyed apricots and tropical fruits.
Milz - Laurentiushof
Very good vintage with a yield of 67 hl/ha. The
harvest broke down as follows 20% QbA, 20% Kabinett, 30%
Spätlese, 30% Auslese, and a select amount of Eiswein and BA.
Must weights range form 75 to 158 Öchsle. Eiswein at 158 Öchsle
was harvested in the Apotheke (175 gm/l residual sugar and 16.7
gm/l acidity). The acids are high and very ripe (lots of
tartaric). 95 at Milz is similar to the 94 vintage but somewhat
rounder due to the higher extracts. Did not taste.
Karthäuserhof
Very good vintage with a yield of 55 hl/ha.
Must weights from 70 to 140 Öchsle. Must acids to 12 gm/l and 10
gm/l in the finished wines. The exception here is the Eiswein
where the acidity is significantly higher. Christoph feel his 95s
are much like his 94s. Initial tastings show classic
Karthäuserhof wines with apples, pears, a mineral component and
at the higher end the wines are vibrant showing peaches, berries.
Piedmont
Good to very good vintage with a yield of 50 hl/ha. The harvest was mostly good Kabinett (70%), with the rest Spätlese and Auslese. Acid and extracts are above normal. Filzener Pulchen Spätlese shows very ripe pears and a clean bright sappy quality.
von Hövel
Very good vintage with a harvest of 50 hl/ha.
Must weights from 78 to 140 Öchsle. 95 Balduin von Hövel was
harvested at 78 Öchsle and chaptalized to 85 Öchsle (Spätlese
quality). Very good acids with high extracts. Eberhard likens his
95s to his 88s. Oberemmeler Hütte Kabinett shows very fine
pears, while the Spätlese is wonderfully layered with hints of
tropical fruit. The Hütte Auslese is rich with botrytis and
tropical fruit flavors.
Egon Müller-Scharzhof / Le Gallais
Very good vintage with a yield of only 32
hl/ha. Must weight levels mostly Spätlese and Auslese including
BA and TBA. In the Scharzhofberg vineyard there was lots of
Eiswein harvested on 11/6/95 and in the Wiltinger Braune Kupp
must weights spanned a range all the way to GKA levels. Acid
structure was similar to 93 with high extracts. Egon Müller
compares the 95s favorably to the 93s.
Dr. Fischer
Very good vintage with a yield of 60 hl/ha.
Must weights from 70 to 110 Öchsle. The vintage consisted of 10%
QbA, 50% Kabinett, 30% Spätlese, and 10% Auslese. Acids are very
high along with high sugarfree extracts. Tasted several Bockstein
wines with Kabinett and Spätlese being of superb quality.
Zilliken
Outstanding vintage with quality like 90 and
93. Yield was 60 hl/ha with must weights ranging from 77 to 130
Öchsle. Good ripe acids with high sugarfree extracts. Lots of
tropical fruit in the Rausch wines, very bright and very fine. We
exclusively reserved the Auslese #22 which showed red grapefruit,
passion fruit, with wonderful lively and bright qualities.
Schloss Saarstein
Very good vintage. Harvest yielded a meager 44
hl/ha and must weights ranged from 75 to 150 Öchsle. A
significant quantity of Eiswein was harvested on 11/5/95. This
Eiswein also represents the highend of harvest, with a must
weight of 150 Öchsle. The acids are good and extracts are high.
The fruit was healthier than in 94. The 95s are similar to the
93s. At the lower must weight common elements are apples and
pears with the bigger wines exhibiting marvelous tropical fruit.
All the wines are bright with a classic Saar mineral component.
Bert Simon
Good vintage! Yield was 60 hl/ha and must
weights ranged from 60 to 110 Öchsle. 50% of the harvest was QbA
while the remaining wine is divided as follows - 35% Kabinett,
10% Spätlese, and 5% Auslese. Both acid and extracts are high.
Bert Simon feels the 95s are similar to his 85 and 88 vintages.
Did not taste.
Rheingau
Robert Weil
Outstanding vintage. Yield was only 42 hl/ha and must weights ranged from 78 to over 220 Öchsle. QbA with must weights from 78 to 84 Öchsle, was chaptalized to 94 Öchsle. There is also Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, GKA, BA, GKBA, TBA, GKTBA plus two TBA quality Eisweins. Knockout vintage!!! The wines are very fine, similar in structure to the 71s, only better. These are fantastic high acid wines with lots of tartaric and potassium. Wilhelm Weil thinks this is the finest vintage to have ever come from the estate of Robert Weil. We wholeheartedly agree.
Franz Künstler
Very good vintage. Only 41 hl/ha were harvested and must weights ranged from 86 to 97 Öchsle. The must had 10 - 13 gm/l acidity with 9 - 10+ gm/l in the finished wines with 60 - 70% tartaric acid. Very high extracts, for example, the 95 Herrnberg Kabinett has over 33 gm/l of sugarfree extract. Gunter thinks the wines are similar to the 94s only riper and more concentrated. Tasted several 94s aside the 95s, and the 95s showed more fruit intensity with ripe grapefruit and strawberries (especially in the Herrnberg).
August Eser
Very good vintage with 50 hl/ha harvested. Must weights ranged form 70 to 92 Öchsle. Breakdown was 20% QbA, 60% Kabinett and 20% Spätlese. Must acids were so high that Joachim performed a double salt deacidification, and the final wines ended up with 8.5 gm/l acid. The wines are similar to his 93s. Tasting was difficult because the wines had just been deacidified. However, both the Rothenberg and Lenchen wines showed well.
Pfalz
Pfeffingen
Very good vintage with a harvest of 68 hl/ha. Must weights ranged from 82 to 167 Öchsle. Breakdown is 54% Kabinett, 19% Spätlese, 25% Auslese, and 2% BA and TBA. The wines are similar to the 94s with acids minimally lower but with high extracts. The drier style Riesling Spätleses have a very engaging ripe grapefruit character. The Scheurebe wines are pure and fine. The Scheurebe TBA is fabulous.
Franken
Wirsching
Average vintage with only 40 hl/ha harvested. Must weights ranged from 70 to 90 Öchsle. Breakdown was 60% QbA, and 40% Predicate wines. Highest acids ever encountered at Wirsching. Because of the high acids the extracts are also very high. Silvaner, Scheurebe, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Müller Thurgau all made very nice wines. The vintage is very similar to the 91s.
Nahe
Schlossgut Diel
Very good vintage. A miserly 31 hl/ha was
harvested with must weights ranging from 75 to 110 Öchsle for
the regular wines. Acid structure like 90 and 94. Very high
extract resulting in concentrated lively wines. There was a
significant Eiswein harvest in early November. The wines show
explosive fruit, red berries and cassis, and are sappy and
bright. No Estate Riesling due to the small harvest.
Emrich-Schönleber
Very good vintage with a 60 hl/ha harvest. Must
weights range from 72 to 128 Öchsle with very high acids and
extracts. Werner feels that the wines are approachable earlier
than 94. Several 95s were tasted from tanks. The Kabinett wines
were quite concentrated, while the Spätlese wines were bright
with peach fruit, with the Halenberg showing a spicy note. The
Auslese wines show both power and elegance. The Halenberg BA is
very fine, bright, with peaches and a hint of cassis.
Rheinhessen
Gunderloch
Another outstanding vintage with a Riesling harvest of only 38 hl/ha. Must weight ranged from 83 to over 240 Öchsle. High acids and high extracts. The vintage is very similar to 94. Because of the slow fermentation a lot of the wines still had significant amounts of residual sugar. Tasted from Estate Riesling to GKA, all were of superior quality. The breakdown for the harvest is 21% QbA, 16% Kabinett, 20% Spätlese, and 43% Auslese.
Baden
Salwey
Very good vintage. Harvest brought 46 hl/ha
with must weights ranging for all varietals from 73 to 106
Öchsle. Acids are higher than normal. The wines are similar to
the 94s only better. Glottertal had more QbA than Oberrotweil
which had more than 60% Predicate level wines. The
Müller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris are quite good as is some of the
Vin Gris (Pinot Noir) from the Glottertal.
Dr. Heger - Weinhaus Heger
Very good vintage with a 35 hl/ha yield for Dr. Heger and 60 hl/ha for Weinhaus Heger. Must weights for all varietals ranged from 80 to 188 Öchsle for Dr. Heger and 75 to 110 Öchsle for Weinhaus Heger. Acid and extracts are very high. White wines appear to be even better than 94 and the Pinot Noir is similar to 89. The French Burgundy clone 117 made some of the best Pinot Noir I have yet tasted at Heger. There are also several fine dessert wines. A Riesling cuvee of BA and TBA, a Pinot Gris BA and a spectacular Scheurebe TBA.
Württemberg
Graf Adelmann
Good vintage. Only 40 hl/ha were harvested must ranged from 74 - 93 Öchsle for Riesling, 68 - 70 Öchsle for Trollinger and 75 to 85 Öchsle for the remaining red and white varietals. Very high acids were deacidified for both whites and reds. The wines are similar to the 91s. There are some very nice Rieslings, as always a clean, bright Traminer and a superb Clevner and Lemberger.