1993 Vintage Report
Overview
With a string of superb vintages starting in
1988 and another great vintage in 1993 this report is almost
becoming superfluous. 1993, is in fact such a superb vintage that
it will rival 1990, and in some cases exceed its quality. Our
initial barrel tastings in January showed very ripe, concentrated
wines with a firm fruity acid backbone.
The following two tables showed comparative
weather and phenological data for the Middle-Mosel.
Table 1 : Middle Mosel weather data for the months April to
October.
|
1992 - 1993 |
Long Term Averages |
|||||
|
|
Temp in °C |
Hours of Sunshine |
Rainfall in Millimeters |
Temp in °C |
Hours of Sunshine |
Rainfall in Millimeters |
|
April |
9.7 / 12.3 |
144 / 160 |
18 / 19.5 |
9.2 |
189 |
50 |
|
May |
16.3 / 15.8 |
238 / 187 |
39 / 77.4 |
13.8 |
219 |
56 |
|
June |
17.9 / 18.3 |
179 / 214 |
137 / 20.2 |
16.9 |
203 |
66 |
|
July |
20.0 / 18.4 |
208 / 198 |
64 / 121.2 |
18.6 |
207 |
74 |
|
August |
20.5 / 17.8 |
209 / 246 |
51 / 17 |
17.6 |
184 |
72 |
|
September |
14.7 / 14.0 |
113 / 87 |
50 / 121 |
14.7 |
184 |
72 |
|
October |
8.2 / 19.7 |
87 / 48 |
57 / 55 |
9.7 |
102 |
54 |
|
Average Total |
15.3 / 15.2 |
168 / 163 |
59 / 62 |
14.4 |
184 |
63.4 |
Table 2 : Phenological data for Riesling on the Middle Mosel
|
Vintage |
1975 |
1990 |
1992 |
1993 |
Long Term Average |
|
Bud Break |
5/2 |
4/24 |
5/3 |
4/25 |
5/3 |
|
Flowering |
6/26 |
6/15 |
6/11 |
6/7* |
6/23 |
|
Start of Ripening |
8/29 |
8/20 |
8/20 |
8/20 |
9/7 |
|
Start of Harvest |
10/15 |
10/15 |
10/14 |
10/11 |
10/24 |
*Earliest Flowering of record
From the Riesling Notes of the Grosse Ring here
is what happened in the vineyards in 1993:
"The start of the 1993 vegetation period
was marked by extremely dry conditions after an arid spring with
below average precipitation (120mm compared with the long term
average of 188mm). Above average temperatures in April (12.3 0C/54.1F
compared with the norm of 9.3 0C/48.7F) led to an
early bud break in many areas, as much as eight days earlier than
the historical average. Favorable weather in May (two degrees
warmer than usual as well as 77.4mm of rain fall compared with a
norm of 60.6mm) fostered rapid growth and good fruit set for the
Riesling grape. Flower clusters began to blossom by the end of
May. The good weather held, flowering was quick, and at this
stage, vegetation was 16-18 days ahead of schedule. Negligible
precipitation between early June and Mid July curbed growth and
in may sites, particularly those with young plantings, there was
some damage due to the water deficit. Relief came on July 19th,
with much needed rainfall. The grapes thrived during the sunny
and relatively good weather in August, resulting in another
unusually early start of the ripening process. Abundant rainfall
in September and showers nearly every day through mid October led
to an early onset of rot in some cases, thereby lowering initial
expectations. Nevertheless, the cool wet weather did less damage
than anticipated. In good, steep Riesling sites, members of the
Grosse Ring achieved must weights almost exclusively in the
Spaetlese- and Auslese range, with an excellent fruity acidity.
Later, Botrytis-affected grapes also were harvested by a few
estates - a just reward for their patience."
In the Mosel - Saar- Ruwer region this was a
significantly better vintage than 1992. Lower yields and very
stable, high acids were factors that contributed to this improved
quality. In top sites the vintage produced superb late harvest
wines. Some estates in the Rheingau and Rheinhessen even
surpassed the quality of the 1992s. Franken had the finest
vintage since 1971. In Baden, Württemberg (by a considerable
margin), Pfalz and Nahe also bettered the 92s.
Estates by Region
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
SCHLOSS LIESER
Great wines! Lowest must weight of 83 Öchsle
(Auslese) was only good enough for the Estate Riesling. There
will be no Kabinett wines. All Spätleses are declassified
Auslese. There are lots of Ausleses, BAs and a TBA. Look
especially for the wines from the Niederberg Helden property.
Yield was 31 hl/ha less than half of '92 harvest. Wines have
great depth and concentration, lots of tropical fruit with good
back bone.
DR. LOOSEN
Ernie thinks his '93s are even better than his
'90s ! Harvest was less than 50hl/ha with over 80% in the Auslese
domain. There will be much declassification, but everything from
Estate Riesling to GKA's, BA (Wehlener Sonnenuhr), TBA's
(Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Ürziger Würzgarten) and Eiswein
(Bernkasteler Lay) will be offered. The high end Auslese and up
have very fine botrytis and firm acids. Very concentrated wines,
bright, sappy with tropical fruit
J.J. PRÜM
Yield was about 60hl/ha, mostly predicate wines
including BA, TBA and Eiswein. Manfred likes the concentration
and acid structure of the wines and feels the quality is pretty
close to the great 1990s. The wines were not ready to taste.
DR. WEINS-PRÜM
Yield was just below 70hl/ha with 15% QbA
(Spätlese must weight), 35% Kabinett, 35% Spätlese and 15%
Auslese. Acid in the finished wines to 9.3gal/l along with high
sugar free extracts. Apples and peaches in Kabinett and
Spätleses, crossing to peaches and tropical fruit in the
Ausleses.
DR. THANISCH
Yield of 70hl/ha with 50% Spätlese and 30%
Auslese; the rest is Kabinett and Estate Riesling. The Eiswein
will probably be merged with the GKA. The wines were not ready
for tasting.
FRITZ HAAG
Yield again about 70hl/ha with over 60% of the
harvest Auslese. With declassification there will be 25% QbA, 20%
Kabinett, 35% Spätlese and 20% Auslese including GKA and LGKA.
We suspect there are also BA, and TBA. Extracts are high and
acids very high. The Juffer Sonnenuhr Kabinett had 10.2 gm/l acid
with 28 gm/l extract - passion fruit, white peaches great depth
and balance, one of the small Auslese had great richness, juicy -
a tropical fruit basket. Wilhelm likens the vintage to his great
76's but with much better acid structure.
REINHOLD HAART
Yield - 67 hl/ha with 16% Kabinett, 44%
Spätlese, 34 % Auslese and the rest GKA, BA, TBA and Eiswein.
The grapes harvested last were loaded with botrytis but still
good acids. Tasted some classic Goldtröpfchen Kabinett,
Spätlese and Auslese - peaches with hints of cassis, pure,
vibrant wines.
MILZ
Could not taste and visit with Markus. He was
on vacation. His vintage report has 90 % of the harvest predicate
wines with 10% Kabinett, 20 % Spätlese and 60% Auslese with a
yield of 60 hl/ha. A BA was produced in the Leiterchen. He
compares his '93s favorably with his 1990s.
KARTHÄUSERHOF
Harvest yield was 60hl/ha . Must weights to 140
Öchsle. Acids in the finished wines to 10gm/l. The wines compare
favorably to the fine '90s. Very compact wines, with depth and
the typical nerve of the Karthäuserhof Rieslings. Ripe on the
palate, peaches, cassis and in the Auslese very fine botrytis
that reminds of apricots and honey. Good extracts and lively
acids. A superb collection!
PIEDMONT
Yield was a very low 48hl/ha 17% Kabinett and
83% Spätlese. Again good extract and very high acids. The
Pulchen Spätlese had typical pear/peaches fruit, bright, clean
and very fine. Klaus declassified all his Ausleses to Spätlese.
VON HÖVEL
Only 40hl/ha, with a superb collection of
wines. Average must weight close to 85 Öchsle. High extracts
with acids in the finished wines 10gm/l. Kabinett and Spätleses
have typical peach /pear flavors of a ripe vintage. Ausleses show
nuances of cassis with fine botrytis. There'll be a superb GKA at
140 Öchsle and a TBA quality Eiswein. Probably exceeds quality
of the 90s.
DR. FISCHER
Yield of 45hl/ha with mostly Spätleses and Auslese. Again high extracts and acids. All the wines are declassified at least one level. Peaches, pears with hints of apricots in the Ausleses. Bright, lively classic Saar Rieslings.
ZILLIKEN
Yield below 50hl/ha. Highest average must
weight since 1983. There is virtually no QbA only 10% Kabinett
and the rest evenly split between Spätlese and Auslese. A very
fine BA of near TBA quality was produced in the Rausch. Even
Kabinett and Spätlese have hints of cassis, the Auslese have
very fine botrytis and almost 10gm/l acidity. Best wines since
Hanno's famed '83s.
SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN
Yield of 50hl/ha with must weights ranging from
76 to 185 Öchsle. A lot of it will be declassified to Estate
Riesling and Kabinett. Only 30% will be offered as Spätlese and
Auslese. There is a very fine BA (150l) and two TBA quality
Eisweins. The wines showed pear / cassis fruit with the typical
Saarstein mineral nuance. Christian compares the '93s favorably
to his great 1990s.
BERT SIMON
55hl/ha with must weights from 70 to 90 Öchsle
which will be offered as Kabinett and Spätlese only ( there are
still plenty of Auslese and BAs from previous vintages). The
wines are ripe, full with peaches/cassis fruit. Bert compares the
wines favorably to his '90s but without the high end.
Rheingau
ROBERT WEIL
What a great collection the '92s were, but the
'93s are even better! Yields were below 35hl/ha with must weights
ranging from 83 to 220 Öchsle. Acids and extracts are very high.
Multiple selection, often seven to ten passed through the
vineyards, brought incredible quality. While tasting through the
'93 collection we compared selected wines to the '92's and it was
clear that the '93s had a leg up. For example, there are 2400l of
'93 Gräfenberg Auslese at 126 Öchsle - rich BA like wine, white
peaches and apricots, elegant and filigreed, has weight and depth
but still "dances!."
FRANZ KÜNSTLER
Yield of 70hl/ha with must weights to over 100
Öchsle. Acids in the finished wines range from 8.2 to 10.3 gm/l.
Extracts are high. There is a terrific Herrenberg Kabinett (over
29gm/l extract), the Reichestal Spätlese is a winner, and there
is another great Hölle Auslese dry.
VON SIMMERN
A yield of 68hl/ha which corresponds to the
average of the last ten years. Musts ranged form 78 Öchsle to
over 170 Öchsle (harvested on 12/1 in the Marcobrunn). Only
Predicate wines with 25% Kabinett, 70% Spätlese, and the
remainder Auslese and up. 93's are big, compact wines. No wines
were ready for tasting.
AUGUST ESER
Yield of 80hl/ha with must weights from 80 to 110 Öchsle. Extracts are high; acids in finished wines average 8.5 gm/l. Half Kabinett and half Spätlese, with small amounts of Auslese which will probably be vinified dry. Bigger wines than the 92's but possibly not as fine. Most of the wines were not finished and quite difficult to taste. The Rothenberg wines showed their typical raciness and spice, with loads of peaches and apricots.
Pfalz
PFEFFINGEN
Harvest yielded 55 hl/ha. Lowest must weight
for Riesling was 94 Öchsle delivering 8.5gm/l acidity to the
finished wines. Lots of Spätlese and Auslese with the typical
peaches and apricot fruit; bright and elegant Riesling's. The
Scheurebe also brought fantastic wines with typical leechy but
also cassis fruit. In general, a vintage of superb Spätleses,
highly extracted wines, with lots of stuff and depth.
Franken
WIRSCHING
Phenomenal vintage. This is the best since 1971. Only the very best 90's can compare, yield was only 48 hl/ha with acids and extracts very good. Mueller-Thurgau - 18% Kabinett, 80% Spätlese and 2% Auslese, Silvaner - 15% Kabinett, 83% Spätlese, and 2% Auslese (over 100,000 l Spätlese in excess of 100 Öchsle), Scheurebe - 95% Spätlese, 5% BA, Riesling - 98% Spätlese and 2% BA. Must weights ranged from 88 to 158 Öchsle. The Julius Echter Berg Silvaner Spätlese is the finest I have ever tasted.
Nahe
CRUSIUS
59 hl/ha with must weights from 76 to 127
Öchsle. Small quantity of Rotenfels Eiswein at 180 Öchsle with
17 gm/l acidity was also harvested. Extracts above average with
finished acids from 7.8 to 8.7 gm/l for the Riesling wines. The
Rotenfels Spätlese is very pure, vibrant with peaches and
almonds, racy and filigree. The Rotenfels BA (bottled in 500ml)
is pure apricots, fine, rich, with good depth.
SCHLOSSGUT DIEL
Great collection of 93's. Yield of 44 hl/ha, must weights from 80 to 180 Öchsle. Acids and extracts very high. The Estate and Goldloch Rieslings are declassified Spätleses. Superb Ausleses, GKA, Eiswein, Goldcap Eiswein, and Goldcap BA round out this marvelous collection. Very pure, bright, almost essence of Nahe Rieslings.
Rheinhessen
GUNDERLOCH
Yield was 32 hl/ha with very high extracts and
acids. Must weights from 88 to 215 Öchsle. The wines are more
concentrated and as a collection will exceed the quality of the
great 92's. For example, there are 2000 l Rothenberg GKA at 128
Öchsle - apricots, tropical fruit, cassis, honey and at the same
time a very vibrant wine 10.5 gm/l acid. There are BA's from
Mueller-Thurgau , Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and of course
another great Riesling TBA. The Estate Riesling was harvested at
over 90 Öchsle, it will not be chaptalized. Amazing wines!.
Baden
SALWEY
Yield of 62 hl/ha with must weights for the
various varietals ranging form 78 - 84 Öchsle for the
Müller-Thurgau, 75 - 84 Öchsle for Silvaner, 80 - 160 Öchsle
for Riesling (includes Eiswein at 160 Öchsle and 12 gm/l acid),
82 - 98 Öchsle for Pinot Blanc and 82 - 106 Öchsle for Pinot
Gris. Acids and extracts are both above average. Pinot Noir and
Pinot Noir Blanc (Vin Gris) from 78 - 96 Öchsle. The Estate
Müller-Thurgau is fresh, clean and refreshing. The Henkenberg
Pinot Gris has depth, melons, gooseberries, clean and balanced -
the wine has fire.
DR. HEGER
Harvested 53hl/ha with the Müller-Thurgau 100%
Kabinett (80 to 85 Öchsle) 6.5gm/l Acid, Silvaner 100% Kabinett
(85-88 Öchsle) 6.5gm/l Acid, Pinot Blanc 100% Spätlese (94 -
102 Öchsle, 6.5 gm/l acid), Pinot Gris 100% Spätlese (100
Öchsle plus, 6.7 gm/l acid), except for Freiburger Schlossberg
which produced only Kabinett, Riesling 80% Kabinett (83 - 90
Öchsle, 8.5 gm/l acid) and 20% Spätlese (93 Öchsle, 8.0 gm/l
acid). There are BA's from Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer. Pinot
Noir is one 1/3 QbA and 2/3 Spätlese. The Winklerberg Pinot Gris
Spätlese is very compact, has richness, almonds, melons with a
hint of honey, has layers.
WEINHAUS HEGER
Harvest yielded 65 hl/ha almost 140,000l total. Pinot Noir produced 62% QbA and 38% Spätlese a total of 48,000l. Pinot Blanc - 100% Kabinett at 90 Öchsle, 7.5 gm/l acid, Pinot Gris - 100% Kabinett at 92 - 94 Öchsle, 6.4 gm/l acid, and Mueller-Thurgau - 100% Kabinett 80 - 84 Öchsle, 5.5 gm/l acids. Wines have a great purity and balance, and are great value. Great wines for the one-premise environment.
Württemberg
GRAF ADELMANN
The harvest yielded 45 hl/ha with 69% predicate wines. The highlights are a Clevener (Pinot Blanc) Auslese, Lemberger Spätlese, Riesling Spätlese, Riesling Auslese, and Traminer Auslese. Graf Michael feels that the vintage compares favorably to the 1971 , 1979 and 1990 vintages. The Traminer Kabinett - fresh, lively, balanced wine that reminds me of the successful 1990. Riesling Auslese tastes of passion fruit, stinging nettles pure and bright. The Traminer Auslese is big, yet elegant, nice grapefruit, amazingly alive wine for the level of acid (4.5 gm/l). The reds are some of the best we have ever tasted here. The Trollinger is light but shows amazing concentration on the palate with bitter almond and strawberry fruit.

